Sunday, April 26, 2026

Day Trip to Hickory Creek Wilderness


What was meant to be a two-night backpacking trip in the Hickory Creek Wilderness turned out to be a day trip with lots of fishing--and not a single fish.  Hickory Creek is stocked with trout every spring, but we were hiking upstream from the bridge where they dump those farm-raised fish.  


We entered at the west end of the wilderness area and went as far as the Forks, where Middle Hickory Creek joins East Hickory Creek.  My friend and I debated the exact location of the Forks.  In fact, he insisted that we'd hiked as far as Coon Run, which I knew we had not.  See the footbridge that someone has built on this fallen hemlock?


When we got back to the world of Wi-Fi, I did a swipe on one of the photos that I took at the Forks, and of course I was right.  We were nowhere near Coon Run.  When it comes to the Allegheny National Forest, it's unwise to challenge the Blogger-Formerly-Known-as-the-Snowbelt Parson.


This trip saw its share of disagreements between my backpacking buddy and me...two old men who are set in their ways and cranky when inconvenienced.  We started the day off wrong by trying to tackle the wilderness area from the east end.  But he found the water there too shallow for fishing.  


Here's the mythical Forest Road 119--which forms the southern border of the wilderness.  It was along this road that I first discovered the Rainbow People at their annual gathering in July of 2010.  They're said to be coming back to the ANF again this July, but they might not return to the exact same spot.  Queen Creek doesn't have many deep pools for swimming and bathing.


The woods here has a brooding quality to it... Not quite creepy, but definitely not inviting.  It takes dedication to get anywhere here in the absence of blazed and established trails.


On the way to Hickory Creek from my house, we stopped by the Tidioute overlook, a common sight on this blog.  I'm trying to get my backpacking buddy to take more of an interest in the North Country so that we're not always going down to the crowded Dolly Sods in West Virginia.


While he vainly fished, I spread a waterproof map on the ground and lay down for a nap.  I found two ticks on myself, but I do love sleeping in the woods.  Should have brought my hammock.

Cook Forest State Park & the Clarion River


The Clarion River might not exactly qualify as majestic, but it's definitely one of the prettier rivers in the state.  Wending its lazy course between wooded hills and boulders, the Clarion is a favorite for kayaking, tubing, and canoeing.  In an episode of middle-aged decline, my backpacking buddy and I ended up spending two nights in a cabin at Cook Forest with a sweeping view of the river.  Why do I blame our time at the cabin on middle-aged decline?  Because even just five years ago, we would have braved the rain and camped in tents.  But now?  Renting a cabin is just so much easier...  Sit on the porch with a book and a cup of coffee and watch the river flow.


The tiny hamlet of Cooksburg is really just three grand old Victorian houses, an ice cream shop, and the ranger station for Cook Forest State Park.  There's also a smattering of rustic cabins for rent.  A narrow road runs 7 miles along the river's edge from Cooksburg to Clarington.  It's a beautiful, circuitous drive.


In the immediate vicinity, you've got Clear Creek State Park, Clear Creek State Forest, the Allegheny National Forest, and the ever-popular Cook Forest State Park--with its several acres of virgin woodland.


Cook Forest is more than just "The Forest Cathedral," that ancient stretch of woods that's never gone under the saw.  But the Cathedral is the park's biggest draw.  There are some truly magnificent trees here--so tall and graceful.  But a lot of the Cathedral section of the park is...ragged.  


There are many dead or fallen trees and rotted trunks standing without branches.  This could just be due to their age.  Some trees here are as old as 450 years.  Somehow, even the dead trees have a stark and silent beauty about them.


We hiked here on a rainy Saturday, and there were very few people on the trails.  One of the reasons I rarely go to Cook Forest is because it's just so popular and frequently crowded.  But I was surprised to discover that Cooksburg was only about half an hour from my house up in the North Country.


There was a bald eagle soaring above the Clarion and a couple in the cabin beside us who were cheating on their spouses.  It was here that I saw my first blue-headed vireos--such sweet little beauties.  The first night we had dinner at the nearby "Reigning Cardinals" restaurant.  As a relatively recent convert to birding, I was intrigued by the name, but my interest didn't last very long.  Their paper placemats depicted some favorite North American birds with lots of misspellings and typos--which was fun.  But the restaurant was...underwhelming.  


The second night, we went to the legendary Sawmill Restaurant in nearby Leeper, which was a great improvement.  Leeper is home to an eccentric fellow who wears a tall purple wizard's hat with purple bell-bottom pants.  He stands or sits in front of his house-trailer and waves at passing vehicles.  The North Country is full of eccentric souls.

Return to Buzzard Swamp, Allegheny National Forest


This is an area of the Allegheny National Forest known as Buzzard Swamp--which is a dismal name for a marvelous place.  During the pandemic, I came up here a few times to camp alone just inside the woods, in a spot overlooking the largest pond.


I think there are 12 or 13 ponds here, and there are so many birds.  We saw osprey, red-winged blackbirds, and bald eagles, among others.  Buzzard Swamp also has white birches.  Such beautiful trees, and they're rare as far south as Pittsburgh.


 A friend and I intended to do two nights off trail at the Hickory Creek Wilderness, but the rain caused us to have second thoughts.  Hickory Creek is treacherous at the best of times, but in the rain it's a boggy mess down along the creeks.  So in stead, we got a cabin at Cook Forest and did day trips.  Maybe this is what happens as backpackers slowly grow old: they rent a cabin if it rains...


More white birches, so lovely.  About six years ago, I had a nice little campsite--mentioned above--that we looked for on this trip, but to no avail.  I can't believe it's gone.  Maybe a tree fell on it or something.


And yet, my friend really liked Buzzard swamp and wants to do our next camping trip there.


There are lots of trails at Buzzard Swamp that I've never hiked, loop trails in the woods that meander far from the ponds.  I've always tried to stay closer to the ponds--even before I took an interest in birds.


So, I guess my next backpacking trip is to Buzzard Swamp.  

Wednesday, April 22, 2026

A Restaurant with a View: Le Mont in Pittsburgh


We had an alumni event at Le Mont restaurant on Mt. Washington last evening. 


I hadn't been there in many years, but part of its charm is that it never changes.

Tuesday, April 21, 2026

Formative Books


Although it's off-topic and has little to do with the themes of this blog, I've been thinking a lot in recent years about the "formative books" that helped make me into the person I am today.  Do you have a few such books?  Books whose stories became your life's morality tales; books whose characters became your role models; books whose words became your vocabulary; books whose illustrations shaped your imagination...  I did not grow up in a house with a lot of books.  My parents wanted to be considered the kind of people who read books--but like many working class folks in those days, they secretly felt that reading was for the lazy and idle.  Free time was for mowing the lawn and washing the car.  They never once took any of their five children to the library.  If mom or dad were home, which wasn't altogether common, the TV was on.  The TV chattered away all day whether anyone was watching it or not.  It was only turned off at bedtime.  There were basically only three books in our home when I was small.  First, we had a big, formal King James Bible, which no one ever read, sitting in a prominent spot in the living room--holding court, presiding silently over everyone present.  No one was allowed to set anything on top of it, because it was deemed sacred, maybe even magical.  Second, we had an old book of fairly tales and nursery rhymes called "Young Years," published in 1971.  (I'm fortunate to have that very book in my possession still today.)  The third book was all mine.  Tucked away by my bunkbed, there was an old copy of Howard Pyle's "The Merry Adventures of Robin Hood," which belonged to my uncle when he was a kid.  Technically, there were two other books in the house, both of which were strictly forbidden.  One was some medical book from my mother's days in nurse's training, and the other was a book of artistic masterpieces from my father's days at the Art Institute of Pittsburgh.  Both were off limits because they had naked people in them.


# 1: YOUNG YEARS: Christmas, 1973, our parents gave us this book of nursery rhymes and fairytales to be shared by my brothers, sister, and me.  I don't remember that humble Christmas; I was only three years old.  But I was more attached to the book than the others were...maybe just because it was a book.  I loved books, and we had so few of them.  No one but my grandmother ever read to me as a child, but that was enough.  I learned to read, precociously, by sounding out the rhymes in this old book.  When my parents downsized, some years ago, I nabbed it.  I read "Young Years" to my own children when they were small, and now they're arguing over who should get it when they start to have kids of their own.  It's got all the old, brutal versions of the fairytales with borderline terrifying illustrations.  For example, in its early telling of the "Snow White" story, the evil queen is punished at the end by being fitted in red-hot iron boots and made to dance till she falls over dead.  


This is an illustration for "Puss in Boots."  Click on the photo to enlarge it.  See the dead rodents in little pouches dangling from the cat's belt...and the haunted-looking man bathing in a pond in the background?  Look at the wild glint in that cat's eyes.  The illustrations in this old book stay with me all these decades later, as they apparently do with my adult children.  Both of them remember with fondness sitting one on each knee while I read to them from my childhood book--I often skipped the grisly parts.  I never allowed them to read the book by themselves because I treasured it, I didn't want them to damage it, and the binding was so worn out.  I regret that now.  A child needs a book to herself sometimes, even if it contains questionable stories like "Jack the Giant Killer."  Since I can't give them both this single volume, I've ordered another used copy of "Young Years" online--same edition.   


# 2: THE MERRY ADVENTURES OF ROBIN HOOD: As I started to outgrow nursery rhymes, I found this book in my grandma's attic.  It had belonged to my bachelor uncle, my mother's brother, who never lived anyplace but in the house where he was raised.  Grandma was happy to let me take it, and it set me on a lifelong quest to leave the world behind and to go off and live in the forest... The only caveat?  I didn't want a band of merry men.  I wanted to be Friar Tuck, living alone in a woodland hermitage, which Friar Tuck did until Robin came along and recruited him for his team.


My brothers ended up reading the book, too.  We tried to re-enact its scenes.  We'd shoot blunt-tipped arrows at each other with real bows---(stupid, stupid kids with no adult supervision, ever!)  We'd fight with long sticks that we called "staffs" or "staves" or "cudgels."  We used to mimic Pyle's intentionally archaic speech. "Hie thee hither, thou scurvy villain, and I'll crack thy nave's pate!"  


Admittedly, a few pates did get cracked...though we were mercifully bad with the bow and arrow.  When I turned 14 or so, I started spending my summers working for the carnivals, which meant that I had some income to buy more books.  Soon enough, Robin Hood was replaced with J.R.R. Tolkien's "Lord of the Rings Trilogy."  But if you're old enough to spend the summer sleeping on the floor of a greasy cotton candy trailer and bathing in Lake Erie, then you're probably past the "formative" stage.  So I don't count "The Lord of the Rings" among my early, formative books.


# 3: THE HOLY BIBLE (King James Version of 1611) was displayed prominently in our home, even if we never read it together as a family.  It played a critical role in my early life because we belonged to an evangelical church that took the Bible literally, for the most part, and which only used the old King James Version--with its lofty-sounding Elizabethan language and its fanciful imagery.  In the King James, in a certain chapter in Isaiah, the word "ostriches" is mistranslated as "unicorns," for example.  "Jackals" is mistranslated as "dragons."  It's much more fun to have a biblical world of unicorns and dragons than one of ostriches and jackals.  Our borderline fundamentalist church(es) always insisted that we memorize great swaths of Scripture in Sunday school, but never anything about mythical creatures, just stuff about heaven, and hell, and salvation from sin.   


I would often flip through the big display-Bible at home because it was filled with these classic and grim illustrations by the French artist Gustave Doré.  For some reason, Doré loved to illustrate the darkest, most disturbing scenes from a book that is full of them: people drowning in Noah's Flood; Jonah and the Big Fish; Leviathan; the dismemberment of some poor woman in the book of Judges; the Slaughter of the Innocents; the crucifixion... David is depicted here, proudly displaying the head of his fallen enemy--Goliath--to the crowd, after killing and beheading him.  Let me ask you this: Why were serious books about art and anatomy off limits, but this stuff was considered sacrosanct and somehow acceptable for children?  Come to think of it, though, our book of fairytales was almost as gruesome and violent as the Bible.


Here's a nice enough scene, Jesus delivering the Sermon on the Mount.  

"Behold the fowls of the air: for they sow not, neither do they reap, nor gather into barns; yet your heavenly Father feedeth them.  Are ye not much better than they?  Consider the lilies of the field, how they grow; they toil not, neither do they spin: And yet I say unto you, That even Solomon in all his glory was not arrayed like one of these."  

That's poetic.  It's comforting.  It's way better than a public beheading...  But it's also probably true that if Doré had only illustrated the pleasant scenes like this one, then the display-Bible in our living room would have gone completely untouched.  The horrors of the Bible are more compelling to small children.  Early on, my parents did buy a set of encyclopedias, "The New Book of Knowledge," 1973 edition.  They were kept in a glass case in one of our houses, on display almost as prominently as the Bible.  It was as if to say to visitors, "This family is godly and knowledgeable," though we weren't really either.  I was the only one who ever used those encyclopedias, and I did use them!  Ever after buying them, my father bemoaned the waste of money that they were.  But not for me.  I loved each and every one of them and read them cover-to-cover--skipping only the articles about science and math.  

My job traveling as a carnie allowed me enough income to dive deeper and deeper into the world of books.  We had to read "Great Expectations" in school, which caused me to buy a bunch of Dickens paperbacks.  Then I discovered poetry, and biography, and travel writing.  In an almost bookless home, three solitary books launched me on a lifelong quest of discovery and learning.  I wonder if everyone has a few books that got them started?  What early books made you into the person you are?  You don't need to tell me the answer...unless you want to.  But answer the question for yourself.  What relationship do you have today with the books that formed you?

Saturday, April 18, 2026

Poor Little Purple Finch


This poor little fellow must have flown into the clear window of the newly-installed front door at my house in the North Country.  Or it might be the back door.  We're slowly remodeling and rebuilding in order to turn the house's back on the road out front.  There's some confusion about the new and seldom-used door that faces the road...formal front door...fire escape back door?   But it's not as confusing as calling this little friend "purple."  You'd sooner call him a "pink" finch or a "red" finch.  But it's nice that "purple" wins one.  I mean, think about it, a lot of purple things are called red: redbuds, red cabbage, and red onions.  I'm glad "purple" gets the finches...

Friday, April 17, 2026

Lake Erie Afterthoughts


It's not the ocean...but it's nice.  I can imagine what the sandy beaches are like in the summer with umbrellas and towels and screaming children.  Those stone barrier islands are meant to protect the shoreline from the waves.  I wonder how big the waves get?  There's no tide here, but it almost looks like the Atlantic on a calm day.  You can't see across to the other side; there's just a line where deep blue water meets pale blue sky.


See the gentle waves that lap against the stony shore.  It brings to mind one of the Bard's best sonnets.

Like as the waves make toward the pebbled shore
so do our minutes hasten to their end,
each changing place with that which goes before.
In sequent toil, all forwards do contend.
Nativity, once in the main of light,
crawls to maturity, wherewith being crowned,
crooked eclipses 'gainst its glory fight,
and time, which gave, doth now its gift confound.
Time doth transfix the flourish set on youth
and delves the parallels in beauty's brow,
feeds on the rarities of nature's truth,
and nothing stands but for time's scythe to mow...

The sonnet goes on to say things that I will not here recite.  It's a sad one.


On the bayside of Presque Isle, and in the boggy interior, these strange mists come rolling over the land and taking over very quickly, then disappearing.  See the clouds encroaching on the horizon?  They dissipated as fast as they appeared. 


This is a bad photo, taken while driving.  But it shows the strange mists that overtake Presque Isle at 3:00 in the afternoon.  

"And nothing stands but for Time's scythe to mow..."